If you are in Puerto Rico and travel west as far as you can, there is a small isolated fishing village, named Espinar.
Often overlooked by more popular tourist destinations in the area, this small piece of Boriken still has an essence of that Island we nostalgically idealize during the coldest months of the year.
Espinar is very small, it is about 3.2 square km with a little over 1,200 inhabitants.
Although difficult to precisely mark how old, it was already an indigenous settlement at the arrival of Columbus. It is also one of the first places in the American continent to witness a native revolt. In 1529, a local tribe rose up against slavery and, as part of their upheaval, killed five European missionary priests and set their monastery on fire. The remaining walls of the old church are still there.
Today its main source of income is a modest fishing industry sustained by local restaurants and a thriving fish market. They simply have the freshest fish and most outstanding “criollo” food.
It is a very quiet and humble place; people are kind, helpful and welcoming. Everyone knows their neighbor and treats each other as extended family.
Locals tend to use bicycles over cars as a method of transportation and dogs are rarely confined to the homes, but rather they roam freely on the streets. A handmade sign nailed to a tree alerts driving visitors to be aware of the furry pets on the road.
Their most beloved and valued treasure is the beach. That’s where many residents meet at the end of the day. You see some of them talking, others fishing, playing dominoes or just peacefully observing the sunset. The ocean constitutes a very significant role in their lives.
Most households (if not all of them) have banana “gandules” and papaya plants growing in their yards. Mango trees are everywhere.
It is very difficult to not want to stay forever in a place like this. But not everything is perfect in paradise.
A devastating earthquake in 1918 caused a tsunami wave that nearly wiped out the entire population of Espinar.
According to oral history, only those who managed to climb up the highest palm trees were able to survive. More recently, Hurricane Maria caused a great deal of destruction there, with the houses closest to the shore ending up completely underwater.
Although forgotten by relief authorities, the people took control of the situation and rebuilt their community.
Next time you visit Puerto Rico, once this pandemic is over and it is safe to travel again, I strongly suggest a stop in Espinar. You will not regret it!
